Menswear Academy

Patent leather Derby

Boggi Milano patent leather shoes BO17C007001

The patent leather derby is one of the classic types of shoes, ideal for use with Boggi Milano’s black tie outfits. Quarters and tongue are edged with grosgrain. There are just three eyelet rows, because dress shoes are generally designed in such a way as to see as little as possible of the laces. Sole and heel are in leather, with rubber heel tips for easy reheeling, and a heat-embossed logo. Quality touches include visible sole stitching, gentleman’s notch, and two brass nails at the front edge of the heel. This shoe, hand-made in Tuscany, is a pleasure to caress and easy to keep at its very high gloss finish.

Boggi Milano patent leather shoes BO17C007001

200 years of history

How is the leather used for these shoes made? Historically the objective of treating leather to create a mirror-finish surface that could be cleaned with just a quick wipe of a cloth led to inventions in the UK and the USA in the late 1700s-early 1800s. These crafts procedures were based on leather treated with a mixture of lampblack (carbon black) and linseed oil applied in several layers, each left to dry and polished with pumice stone, with a final coat of varnish fired in a kiln for three days followed by exposure to the sun. Today the process is based on high-gloss polyurethane resins applied to fine-grain leather, for products that are flexible and comfortable, capable of maintaining their high gloss for years.

Boggi Milano patent leather shoes BO17C007001

Classic footwear for the tuxedo

Patent leather shoes are a classic accessory for a black tuxedo, and they also work well with Boggi Milano’s blue tuxedo. In traditional black tie outfits, socks and bow tie will also be black. Usually a belt is not part of the black tie look; if a watch is worn, it will be of the dress watch type, with black leather strap.

Boggi Milano blue tuxedo